There are two ways to access this secluded river restaurant – by the inn’s private boat or, for a more glamorous entrance, you can step out by seaplane. Designed by legendary architect Glenn Murcutt, the ‘verandah on the water’ is home to an Australian-themed dining room, which melds unfinished blackbutt timbers with a soft palette that borrows from the bush. Floor-to-ceiling glass louvres allow sunlight and fresh air to mingle with diners, while blending the interiors with the eucalypts and angophoras beyond. Surrounded by this much ruggedness, it’s almost a surprise to find such refinement on the plate.

Head chef and owner Brian Geraghty has put together a beautifully orchestrated menu that includes French and Japanese influences, while remaining grounded in the outback. Confit Petuna ocean trout is paired with a bergamot-scented creme fraiche alongside furled wafers like crisp little waves. Silken cod makes the short leap to the plate, where it rests alongside sweetly perfumed fennel, pickled and pureed. A dark ale ice cream captures the maltiness and fizz of a good porter, which is cleverly matched with a golden caramel sauce and candied barley crackle. Drinks range from Australian wines to cocktail infusions, served at the table in cologne bottles. A house concoction of whiskey with Kakadu plum and lemon aspen carries the sweet fragrance of the wilderness beyond. There’s a cheese course, too, as well as coffee and petit fours – any excuse to linger longer.