Joel Best has spent a lot of time with fish. Previously of Bondi’s Best – the North Bondi iconic fish+chipper with a difference that closed in 2019, the chef/restaurateur is back in the game. With a couple of Bondi-Best mates, he’s now co-owner, part-time chef, waiter, bookings wrangler and, most importantly, seafood source for a teensy 14-seater that’s all about the very … er, best from the world’s oceans. Daily supplier calls and market visits kick off every working day. After all, an authentic omakase is all about its fresh-produce ethos.

Squeezed into the first floor of a laneway tower, above a hard-to-spot red neon sign and a wild, kabuki-inspired foyer mural by street artist Lisa King, Besuto plays on the current trend for intimate, “trust the chef” Japanese set-menu dining ($180 a head). With an Aussie twist.

With chair seating below a high wooden counter, on arrival the tiny room feels somewhat stiff and stark. Five couples chat quietly as we wait for the last guests. We’re about to embark on a communal eating journey with people we’ve never met, guided by the ebullient Hiro Kano, one of two chefs (and funnily enough, two Hiros) prepping above us. By contrast, sushi expert Hiro Fujita, a fixture of those Bondi days, is all eyes-down and focused.

As the latecomers slide in, sommelier Alex Zanarini sets the pace. We’re up for about 18-20 courses. Instagramming is fine. Chatting to Chef encouraged. Chatting to fellow diners also. OK!

Drinks poured from a great sake list (good wines too), fat, deep-shelled Pacific oysters are passed over the counter, with an umeboshi (pickled plum) granita. Nice.

Next, seafood layered over cucumber and wakame – raw scallops from Japan, john dory, tiger prawn. A spiced coconut and cauliflower soup follows (bowl-licking good) and then, a rolled sashimi set (octopus, bass groper and more) with aged soy simmered with kombu.

Charred tuna comes with shallot dressing and yuzu puree … Each dish is explained enthusiastically by Chef Hiro (Kano). Silent Chef Hiro (Fujita)’s turn next. The sushi ride. “Please use your hands, no extra seasoning required.”

Carefully-shaped rice parcels come draped with meltingly good Mount Cook alpine salmon, New Caledonian prawns, bonito, sea eel (anago) and, as an extra luxury hit, N25 caviar – from China via Germany. Sweet, super-fresh, exquisite fruits of the sea. Like the seared miso toothfish to finish.

Meantime, we’ve become bench buddies with our neighbours, Bobo and Tony. They even generously splash some of their special sake into our glasses (for sake-nerds, Dassai Beyond – I won’t tell you the price). We’re comparing Insta shots and restaurant stories. It’s a far cry from the spectacular but silently reverential sushi explorations I’ve been lucky to enjoy in Tokyo and from some of Sydney’s longtime masters. But hey, it’s fun and the food is fabulous.

After a cleansing yuzushu sorbet, made by the very fine Zini Gelato downstairs, we all agree: it’s been the Bes(u)to* night. * Hint, the “u” in Japanese-English is not pronounced. “Another play on my name,” says Joel Best.

Related restaurant review: Upstairs at Woollahra Hotel takes pub dining to a whole new level