A nicely fitted-out bistro amid the hubbub of inner-city West End, Billykart marries a relaxed vibe with well-priced food and a sparkling drinks list.

Start with oysters or go for an entree such as fresh figs with Vannella mozzarella, wasabi rocket, basil oil, buttermilk and Parmesan, or perhaps toast topped with a subtle mix of spanner crab meat, finger lime salt and vinegar saltbush.

Chef Ben O’Donoghue’s food is lovely, simple flavours that are best enjoyed with a drink at the tables nestled among the garden beds, or in the spacious indoor dining space, with a view of the open kitchen.

Spanner crab, tomato and chilli spaghetti is a glorious main, as is half a spit-roasted chicken, or the meaty splendour of porchetta – fennel and rosemary rolled pork belly, with crunchy crackling and deliciously succulent meat.

To wash it all down, choose one of the top beers on tap, including Stone and Wood Pacific Ale. There are also classic cocktails, and an Aussie-heavy wine list that covers all budgets.

Finish with a selection from the cheese trolley or, if you’re craving a sweet ending, desserts such as the pina colada will do the job – pineapple curd, coconut sponge, rice custard ice cream and mint and lime granita that has become a fixture on the dessert menu for good reason. Another decent choice is the chocolate brownie, teamed with Valrhona Caramelia, chocolate ganache and honeycomb, its richness offset by a restrained milk ice cream.

Must-eat dish: Porchetta
Instagram: @billykart