Regional cuisine in Australia has never truly been defined. Dotted throughout this big brown land are examples of world-class restaurants, but food that represents a region is something missing from the culinary map. But, amongst the rolling lush green of the Southern Highlands, chef James Viles is on a mission to discover and showcase the food of the region at Biota. The name, of course, is defined as the animals and plants of a region. A combination of foraging, selective sourcing and growing his own lays the foundation for a menu full of enthralling exclamations. There’s a homely, country meets slick sophistication about this wonderfully open, natural space. Numerous fireplaces, in-season blossoming branches and mid-century teak tables and chairs provide the canvas for Viles considered, contemporary crusade. And the wine list not only places emphasis on the best drops of the Southern Highlands and the surrounding hinterlands, but it walks arm in arm alongside Viles gifts from the kitchen. Murray cod is gently poached in clarified butter beneath ribbons of young leak and seaweed crisps, while roasted rye crumbs and chickpea pasta is crowned by a glistening orange egg yolk orb. Local, east coast bug meat is subtly smoked over dried fruit pits until set, yet translucent providing bite and a sweet, creamy mouthfeel, then local smoked beef rump cap gets a dose of umami from cured and dried calves liver snow. The finale of stone fruit sorbet and rose meringue arrives in a puff of dry ice. Biota’s educational endeavor to define the southern Highlands and its produce, has not only placed it as one of our most important within the regions, but one of Australia’s best too.
Tel: 02 4862 2005

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