Number 42. It was the satay chicken at Dynasty Chinese Restaurant when I was a young Huck. I don’t think I ever perused the other 103 dishes on offer. I mean, who has three days to read a menu?

So I was intrigued upon hearing Sydney CBD newbie Bistecca, owned by James Bradey and Warren Burns (Grandma’s, The Wild Rover, Wilhelmina’s), offered just one dish – the classic bistecca alla Fiorentina, aka T-bone steak. It’s cut to the requested weight, at $13 per 100 grams, and cooked in front of you over licking flames.

There are rules to follow before you get to wrap your chops around this T-bone. You can’t book, unless you’re a group of six or more. But that’s par for the course these days. Once you find the entrance – a laneway backdoor, of course – descend into a den where others have beaten you to the punch. Scribble your name down and, well, wait. When your bingo moment arrives, you’re led to the dining room and asked to lock your phone in a drawer and enjoy each other’s company (we said no).

With its brick-clad ceilings and quaint light fixtures, the room feels like a polished war-era subway. It’s small, tight and the tables are close together. Annoying – especially for other diners – when you have to move the entire table to get out.

Head chef Pip Pratt and an offsider are flipping Ts at the centre of the room. It’s agreat little venue – an impressive red wine list is worth the trip alone – but when you do one thing, you’d better do it right.

Although there’s only one main, 12 sides and five snacks help you wash down all that flesh. Broccolini gets a lick of skordalia with shavings of dried albacore. Artichoke and tomato make a homely sauce for tiny ricotta dumplings. Mash is a must, and creamed cavolo nero takes the cake.

So, to the T-bone, a grain-fed Riverine Black Angus, aged for less time than it takes to get a table. You’re not asked how you’d like it cooked, or told how it will be served. Which I don’t mind in the hands of a chef who believes a certain breed and cut should be cooked a certain way. Only, I don’t care what cut or breed it is, I don’t want my steak medium-well, and that’s what landed on the table. There was some red flesh on the bone, but the sliced pieces were way overdone. Sure, the flavour was big, but the texture was fast approaching car tyre. Considering the steak is sliced before serving, I find it odd it even left the pass. I notice the table next to us were served blushing flesh. At $300 for two, I’m feeling bummed about ours.

Anticipation is great, but when you ramp up expectation, you’d better deliver. I like the ideal Bistecca is built around – to have you chomping at the bit for red flesh, red wine and good times. And if our steak was bang-on I’d have been mooing until the cows came home.