It’s like being admitted to a club you didn’t know you wanted to join. Behind the closed door that separates the dining room from the bar, the welcome is warm, the service whip-smart, the glowing coals reassuring, the hacksaw by the monolith of Riverina beef intriguing.

Bistecca is the name and the game here. It’s a brave and fun concept – a restaurant with one main course, bistecca alla Fiorentina, aka Florence’s famed T-bone steak. It’s cut to the weight ordered, cooked to medium-rare over charcoal, ironbark and olive branches, seasoned well and served simply with a cheek of lemon. While you wait, focaccia arrives to dip into the beef-and-duck-dripping candle melting in the centre of the table. And how is that steak? Well, the chef has one job and he does it to a T – the charry crust caramelised perfection, the juicy pink flesh offering no resistance.

When it comes to the sides, meat-shy diners could put together a standout meal from the likes of cavolo nero with confit garlic cream, broccolini with chilli and breadcrumbs, and smoked leek and potato gratin. Carnivores can double down with bone marrow topped with a parmesan crust and halved caperberries.

The wine list offers a tour of Italy’s better and lesser-known regions. Dig deep while you wait in the bar – dinner bookings are for groups of six or more only. And you could do worse than stay in the bar with snacks like a Bolognese, bechamel and three-cheese toastie served until 2am. Bravo.