One of Adelaide’s East End shining lights, the street level sibling restaurant of renowned Orana is a dining entity in its own style and not a baby version of the Australian-native-ingredient-led upstairs multi-award winner, though you can access its extensive wine list if desired.

Cuisine style is a little tricky to define exactly with a fusion of cultures represented on the smallish seven apiece “Smaller” and “Larger” serve selections. There are Italian, French, Middle Eastern and Asian treatments across the board, mirrored by a few imports mixed into the wine list which concentrates on a good if somewhat pricey set of domestic bottles and 14 offers by the glass.

One of the smalls has had quite a bit of insta-exposure – a mortadella sandwich which is more a curiosity than anything of great culinary creativity. A chicken liver parfait, credited on the menu to Marco Pierre White, is of greater restaurant entree quality and highly recommended.

A larger plate of squid, pickled cucumber and cassava is underpinned by a surprisingly tame dark dried chilli paste, while pork chops with curried corn puree leans even more to the mild side.

Desserts are a CWA homage: hot chocolate lamington, a sour-cream cheesecake and a basic meringue with rhubarb for example.

An all Aussie rock-oriented playlist on this review’s night added a dominant dining room vibe and you’d certainly want to like Powderfinger, Hoodo Gurus and Paul Kelly on repetition for it not to disrupt your digestion.