French food needn’t be fussy and formal to be finessed. Exhibit A: Bistro Gitan, the Reymond family-run restaurant where comfort is key.

From the charming wooded interior with its fireplace and leafy parkland aspect to the roll call of Gallic specials and signatures, you’re in for a très comfortable experience.

Bentwood chairs and paper-on-linen tables set the tone, with French waiters on hand to help with the menu’s finer points or top up wine from a well-priced list that pleases rather than surprises.

Spiced cheese churros were savoury bombs let down by insipid yoghurt for dipping. Better to team with the theme and order escargot – chewy bites swimming in butter and garlic, or a pithivier encasing mushrooms cooked in a tangy broth giving good depth.

Graduate to grass-fed eye fillet – cooked perfectly and served with a sharp mustard-based house sauce, or la pochouse, a Reymond family specialty of rockling in a fragrant broth with mushrooms, bacon, onions and sorrel that’s rich yet refreshing. Gratin dauphinois ups the comfort factor.

Finish on a wonderfully brittle vanilla creme brulee or the indulgent chocolate mousse jewelled with hazelnuts and orange segments to round out an all-French affair.

Must-eat dish: La pochouse
Instagram: @bistrogitan