At Sydney’s rendezvous point for classic French fare, Guillaume Brahimi’s bistro menu covers off all the must-eat dishes in Paris, letting you relive your time in the City of Lights. The escargot en persillade is as good as you’ll find at any restaurant lining the Seine. The little suckers are served out of the shell in a hot bubbling bath of garlicky butter. A twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé may look pretentious, but beyond its puffy exterior and gaudy grilled comte lies an incredible lightness that lets you go back and forth for more. Keep the night on a high with the bavette steak in a red wine Bordelaise, thick and luscious with a mouth-coating marrow. A dish famous from his Bennelong days, the Paris mash remains a show-stealing side. If it had any more butter it might just cross over into the desserts. The cuisine may be deeply patriotic but the setting is not. Taking design cues from its position on the bottom level of the Suncorp building, Bistro Guillaume ditches the frills and frippery for corporate couture that channels a top floor boardroom.