An open verandah with a breeze wafting in from the inlet across the road, crisp-battered goldband snapper and a glass of Tim Adams riesling – this feels like a holiday on a plate.

Set in an old Queenslander in Port Douglas, North Queensland, Bistro H has a relaxed, tropical feel, with tables set on the verandah overlooking a fairy-light-filled courtyard, the smell of mangoes in the air from the overhanging trees. English-born chef-owner Spencer Patrick shows his heritage by adding mushy peas, excellent hand-cut chips and a lovely tartare sauce to accessorise the moist fish fillet hidden inside the batter.

Patrick spent a decade with the Marco Pierre White group in London before moving to Australia and, ultimately, Port Douglas 10 years ago. And while he has become an exponent of regional produce, Bistro H is an ode to his roots, described as a “European bistro influenced by its surrounds”. The Euro-vibe also extends across the Channel to France, with cider-steamed mussels Normandie, snails Bourguignon, foie gras, goat’s cheese souffle, chateaubriand and confit duck leg.

However some dishes are more local in concept, such as an entree of salt-baked beetroot salad with radicchio, Mungalli Creek feta (from the Atherton Tablelands), buckwheat and spiced honey, or local grilled calamari with nduja, ash crumb (from coconut-ash-flavoured house-made sourdough) and squid ink mayonnaise.

Desserts include Daintree vanilla creme brulee and Campari and orange sorbet, while the concise wine list serves its purpose pleasantly enough to keep you well chilled on the verandah.

Must-eat dish: Proper fish and chips
Instagram: @bistro_h