There has been a wonderful French renaissance in Sydney over the last year or so, and Bistro Rex exemplifies a contemporary take on the classic bistro.

Owned by a gaggle of industry pros (eight in total from Spice Temple, Bloodwood and China Doll), they’ve captured that Parisian sentiment where a smart-casual atmosphere, genuine hospitality and simple food combine for a deeply satisfying experience.

Open for lunch four times a week and for dinner daily, it doesn’t take bookings except for groups, so you may need to roll the dice and hope they have room. Thankfully, it’s well worth waiting for.

Situated along the leafy end of Macleay St, Bistro Rex has a smart fit-out by Ralph Rembel. Mosaic tiled floors and pillars, French oak panelling and copper and brass railings catch the eye. Meanwhile, a zinc bar offers a view of the frenetic, though friendly, kitchen crew led by ex-Bloodwood chef Jo Ward.

A puff pastry pissaladiere lands with caramelised onion, anchovies and black olives, while a delectable omelette highlights the sweet flesh of spanner crab, although I could do without the charred broccolini on top.

Next, paté comes to the fore with a rich and textural pork terrine and a pile of pickles – it’s the best I’ve had in years. Refreshing, crunchy wisps of kohlrabi support the autumnal sweetness of steamed hapuka with smoked oyster cream. A confit chicken, meanwhile, is paired with a zesty harissa-laced broth.

Steak (in this instance sirloin) frites with cafe de Paris is a little overcooked for rare. But the tarte du jour to finish is sublime, with slivers of caramelised apple, delicate pastry and a twin dose of cream and ice cream.

With an expansive French and Australian wine list and affable service, Bistro Rex is the kind of place you wished you dined at every night.