Is Potts Point the Paris of Sydney? If Bistro Rex has anything to do with it, perhaps it is. This Left Bank-style French bistro adds Parisian panache to the feasts that it offers up with genial service and a smashing wine list to boot. There may have been a wonderful French renaissance in Sydney over the last year or so, but Bistro Rex exemplifies a contemporary spin on the classics – and damn it’s good.

Owned by a gaggle of industry pros (eight in total from Spice Temple, Bloodwood and China Doll), it’s open daily for lunch and dinner and situated along the leafy end of busy Macleay St. Inside, the cavernous room features mosaic floors and pillars, French oak panelling and copper railings, while a zinc bar offers a bird’s-eye view of the kitchen, led by ex-Bloodwood chef Jo Ward.

Puff pastry pissaladiere speaks of caramelised onion, anchovies and black olives. A delicate omelette highlights the sweet flesh of spanner crab, and a rich, textural pork terrine comes with a pile of pickles.

The sweetness of steamed hapuka is complemented by smoked oyster cream, while confit chicken is paired with a zesty harissa-laced broth. There’s even the classic steak (in this instance sirloin) frites with cafe de Paris, and a tarte du jour to finish is simply sublime with slivers of caramelised apple, delicate pastry and a twin dose of cream and ice cream.

Bistro Rex is the everyday local we all wish was around the corner.

Must-eat dish: Country pork terrine, pickle
Instagram: @bistrorex