Tasmanian beef is produced predominantly in the northwest, where the air is pristine, the grass lush and herds tackle ocean swells in search of better feed.

Doing all this justice is Black Cow Bistro, a carnivore paradise in the centre of Launceston. Several years ago, the Cow took up residence in an art deco former butcher shop on the corner of two of the city’s busiest inner streets. It’s since matured into a polished yet approachable dining institution.

Besides the vintage lure of red meat and wine, there’s much romance to the Cow. Bentwood chairs, wallpaper stencilled with bison, a marble bar, ornate mirror, dimmed lights and wait staff in bracers and beards occupy the dainty space that quickly fills seven nights a week.

Little sibling to Stillwater Restaurant, its no surprise the Cow’s service is superb. Trained under Young Restaurateur of the Year, Bianca Welsh and Sommelier, James Welsh, is a gang of fresh-faced waiters who easily explain the marbling of an eye fillet and help navigate sauces and sides.

Start with seafood – usually taken in an Asian direction – or the pork belly. Make sure you pick sweet potato with labneh and Huon Valley mushrooms to accompany the main event, always served with potato galette.

Don’t ask how they do their medium rare. Not only will a little part of the waiter’s soul expire, but also because you can trust the chefs will cook your choice of cut over hot coals according to universal steak standards. The fatty scotch fillet is my pick. Having soaked up the scent of blazing charcoal, this cut cooked rare never disappoints. Ensure room is saved for sweets: frozen caramel slice or chocolate fondant; a molten dome of happiness.

Wash it all down with fizz, riesling or pinot probably hand delivered by the producer that day, or pick a bottle from northern Italy. The Cow’s wine list is rich and varied, as is its selection of gin and award winning whiskey.

All of the above will seduce you to the point of severe satisfaction. You may not want to leave its warmth, its beauty, its comfort, but know the Cow isn’t changing pastures anytime soon.

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Tel: (03) 6331 9333