This shrine to steak is a meaty paradise where you could begin with an entrée of meatballs, beef ribs or steak tartare to lead in to the main event – Stanbroke Beef steak.

Diners can select from an array of Angus (marble scores of 3-plus) cuts as well as Wagyu (five-plus) options and an organic eye fillet.

However meat is not mandatory and oysters, calamari, arancini and mussels are among the starter possibilities and goat’s cheese tortellini or fish are main course options.

Steaks are cooked as requested and come served simply with a couple of chunks of wagyu fat-roasted potato and a choice of sauce.

Generously portioned sides such as sautéed Brussel sprouts, roast carrots with pomegranate syrup and almonds or hand-cut chips are extra but are generously portioned.

Don’t discount dessert, as the crisp-lidded brulee studded with Armagnac-drenched prunes is a real treat.

The wine list is substantial, the first-class service verges on the formal and the dining room with its white-clothed tables and comfortable seating is small enough to maintain a sense of intimacy. A well-run enterprise.

Exceptional dish: Wagyu 5-plus rump cap