It may have originally pitched itself as a carnivore’s carnival, but Blackbird has evolved to be more than just one of the nation’s best festivals of the flesh.

It’s a monolithic, albeit odd, beast of a venue. A separate bar feels like a sticky-floored nightclub – and it’s packed. But the main dining room harks back to the grandeur of restaurants past, in a sense.

Think high-backed velvet chairs, giant chandeliers, purple and red banquettes and a Gatsby-inspired gold trimmed bar. Yep it’s a bit over the top and quite naff, but there is nothing out of fashion about the wine list, spot on service or food that is far too superior to be labelled as simple steakhouse fare.

It may be the number one business lunch ticket in town, but once you look past the exceptional steak menu (no less than 11 beautiful bovines) chef Jake Nicolson shows his culinary ingenuity in fine fashion.

Ease into those big banquets with a fantastic selection of oysters and Hervey Bay scallops – raw, of course. Tuna carpaccio arrives Sicilian style. Quandongs bring tartness to goose and duck pate. Parsley puree adds a grassy tone to pheasant tortellini.

Then crisp potato chips dotted in taramasalata crown a woodfired swordfish at home on a bed of tabouli.

Of course, if you want to succumb to your carnal crush, they’ve got you covered. Ranger’s Valley wagyu cross hanger is a textural treat with bags of flavour, while a 500g Thousand Guineas Australian Shorthorn rib eye on the bone lands blushingly pink.

There’s even a feasting menu with dishes to share – like a whole roasted harissa chook with yoghurt and toasted chickpeas or a coal-roasted Murray cod with desert limes.

The fit-out might polarise some, but Nicolson’s clever knack of keeping things simple while bringing out the flavour will surely please all.