The wood-fired Infierno 96 takes centre stage in the dimly lit, intensely noisy space, with diners able to watch chefs fire up proteins in the open kitchen.

Well-drilled waitstaff happily make recommendations from the generous menu, moving from oysters and caviar to starters, mains and dishes to share such as a wagyu tomahawk, whole lamb shoulder or seafood platters. A sommelier is on hand to negotiate the tome-like wine list, beginning with easy-drinking bubbles and riesling, and taking in a wealth of lesser known varietals, plus the giants of the wine world from across Australia and Europe, including Romanee-Conti.

An almost margarita-like mandarin-based mocktail from the strong non-alcoholic offering pairs well with the restaurant’s up-market version of KFC – a buttermilk fried quail; while the venue’s hero product – steak from across the country – demands one of the big Aussie reds from the wine list. Just expect to pay on average $70 for a piece of beef with coleslaw, and $3 extra for sauce. With classic desserts given a slight cheffy spin, this is approachable fare made that little bit fancy.

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