The wood-fired grill in the open kitchen glows ready to deal with nine steaks from multiple suppliers, but the menu also extends into other less-travelled territory.

Bug and scallop ravioli, Moroccan spiced red shrimp with cauliflower or celeriac baked in salt crust are rather delicately composed starter options.

Next, MSC swordfish grilled over coals is beautifully cooked and simply served with seaweed butter; while Shultz’s crisp pressed suckling pig is simple and beautifully moist meat that teams with pear cider puree and crushed parsnips.

Other options are Longreach white lamb and Brisbane Valley quail.

Desserts are determined not to be ignored, and while it’s relatively simple, a filo log filled with warm apple and bourbon glaze is really well-executed, with candied pecans and brown sugar ice cream completing the picture.

The warm Valrhona chocolate tart with candied orange and black cardamom ice cream demands a return visit.

The global wine list is exceptional, with more 600 than choices, including a page of those produced in Queensland.

Service is professional and personable. This is a CBD standout.

Exceptional dish: Shultz’s crisp pressed suckling pig