Blanca restaurant, named for a blank canvas, ain’t so blank after all. There are 15 dishes on the snack menu alone, and with a choice of six different tasting menus, plus weekly specials, choosing what to order might take a while. But don’t fret: you’re in good hands with Finnish restaurateur Tomi Björck and his co-star chef Samuel Cole.

Wafers loaded with light and bright salmon tartare, citrusy mayo and the pop of tobiko kick the Japanese-meets-Mediterranean menu off in a sunny style that’d make Bondi proud. The crisp Blanca spuds, smashed and smattered with garlic and furikake, are made for eating after lazy days at the beach. Even better with one of the eight gin-and-tonic options in hand (the garnishes run from a grapefruit twist and thyme, to viola flowers). Lightly cured bonito “pastrami,” licked by brown butter, arrives artfully plated with a choose-your-own-adventure of accompaniments: a tangy yuzu and Sichuan cream dotted with Avruga, here, delicate squares of konbu and pickled ginger, there. Juicy roasted duck breast and kimchi makes a hearty DIY filling for sesame leaves, baby cos and pancakes. The gentle glow from Edison-bulb feature lights, reminiscent of floating magic wands, adds warmth to the otherwise white-on-white fit-out. On a menu all about sharing, portion sizes could benefit from an upgrade better in line with the prices (two lamb chops does not a rack make). But flavour and friendliness loom large.