Add in an exposed open-fire kitchen, polished blonde timber, lengths of draped linen and decorative pumpkins and it’s hard to believe this space used to be an old tram barn. But the carefully curated surroundings are matched by the food – wholesome, hearty, and relaxed, but always well considered.

The menu covers all corners of the globe. Long charred snake beans are dolloped with a salty, garlicky house-made XO sauce. Italy’s twisty top burrata cheese is split with a spoon and releases its oozy creaminess over salt-baked golden beets sprinkled with fennel seeds and oregano.

Large plates are equally far reaching, from a sticky soy and black vinegar charcoal chook that’s piled high with herbs, to a chargrilled striploin, presented perfectly medium rare in a puddle of “Sunday roast drippings” so good you’ll wish you could siphon the jus into a bottle to take home.

There’s a short dessert menu, or you can select something smaller from the pastry cabinet. Don’t miss their take on an old-fashioned crumble, this one served with braised rhubarb that’s neither too tart nor too sweet, and a silky white chocolate and miso custard. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.