Chef Colin Barker is one of the most underrated in Sydney. He’s not beating his chest in the media spotlight, rather, he’s in the galley filleting the latest catch of the day to make sure his clientele are well fed.

Start with Yarra Valley Golden Brook Trout caviar served with light and fluffy potato blinis, wasabi and crème fraîche. Then, Hawkesbury River calamari is gently grilled and served on a bed of potato and parsley. Tarragon and cider butter smother roast Yamba prawns in lush richness; pan-fried flathead partners plump mussels and cauliflower in a curry butter. It’s one of the best long lunches you can experience.

Must eat: Snapper pie