A row of shipping containers have been cleverly transformed into a hyper-contemporary cellar door/tasting room and restaurant, black metal and attractive timber offsetting each other in a sharp urban design.

This flows on to the ultra-cool vibe in Bocca di Lupo, a contrast to many other cellar door restaurants that exude more of a friendly countryside style of service.

The menu fits in with this approach as well, each item described as an ingredient list; for example Scallop/Cauliflower/Prosciutto, a classic starter that is almost a retro dish nowadays.

The menu writing can, however, be a trap when it offers Pumpkin Tortellini/Scampi/Burnt Orange/Carrot but without explanation from staff comes to the table as a Thai-flavoured dish. Note: definitely ask for a detailed description before ordering.

Plates are fussily crafted with multiple components and treatments, often quite experimental in the cooking and very rich with creams and sauces, but sized well enough if you wish to go a seven-course degustation rather than a la carte.

The wine list is driven by Mitolo’s own label from SA with the addition of a good selection of Italian imports. The cellar door/tasting room that connects to the restaurant space does a range of flights ($15 and $25) with selected restaurant snack dishes, and suits a more casual visit.