It’s hard to pass up a front-row seat at one of the diner-style spearmint stools at the bar to watch chef Joel Humphreys on the pans. From here, inside the revamped tramsheds of Forest Lodge, one can do some proper dish spotting.

Befitting of yet another restaurant owned by power trio Elvis Abrahanowicz, Ben Milgate and Joseph Valore (Bodega, Porteno and Wyno), there’s an extensive tapas list spanning iterations on much-loved Bodega classics – think pickled green tomatoes, butterflied king prawn with smoky capsicum butter and rosemary, and butter and bran buns stuffed with crab, avocado and a fried potato scallop.

The wine list is mostly Aussie and Spanish and absolutely excellent, and you can pop in to the glass-walled, climate-controlled wine store and pick up a bottle to take home.

Every single dish that comes out of the kitchen is immaculate: texturally pleasing, working the boundaries of comforting, surprising and eye-rollingly delicious. There are no mistakes, no dish disappointments, and nothing is dull. Wood-grilled octopus is sticky and tender, a roasted leek providing a melting yet pleasingly squeaky counter texture. Wagyu skirt steak is what steak always wanted to be when it grew up, a buttery meatiness making you swear off lesser versions forever.

Humphreys has put the fun back into seasonal flavour combos, having his way with bitter, sweet, sour in every dish. Roast broccoli comes with whipped ricotta ravioli, a 62 degree poached egg eventually becoming a genius self-saucing addition. The radicchio with cumquat, apple and chervil is a would-be humble side, but it deserves a standing ovation.

The truth is, though, we never want to leave these seats.

Must eat dish: Charcoal grilled octopus, romesco sauce, roast leek
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