The trend of “curated food halls” is one I’ve had trouble getting to grips with. But the heritage-listed Tramsheds at the new Harold Park development may have changed my mind.

The Tramsheds itself has all manner of artisanal offerings from innovators in the Sydney food world. None fit that bill better than the team from Porteno and Bodega. Here, the owners have delivered a spin-off to their successful Surry Hills tapas bar of (almost) the same name, albeit with a slightly softer feel.

Out with bold black and red interiors. Instead the palette is made up of mint greens, shell pinks, and delicate gold detailing that adds up to the team’s most arresting venue yet.

In the kitchen, head chef Joel Humphreys oversees an almost all- female line-up producing dishes that are anything but timid.

Take the blood cake – a type of blood sausage made to a ratio of around 60/40 pig’s blood to pig’s head meat, infused with cumin and coriander and served with yoghurt and a spicy salsa verde.

If you can get past what you’re eating, it’s one of the tastiest and most inventive dishes in the city right now.

There’s also a sensational dish of grilled asparagus with a Chinese-style fried egg and harissa. Another standout is the rich pork sausage, produced by Luke Powell at LP Quality Meats, which Humphreys estimates clocks in at a 50/50 meat to fat ratio and is served with fried and pureed potato – not for the calorie counters.

Desserts are equally sinful. The best is a ginger malt loaf, a recipe from Humphreys’ grandmother, served simply with brown butter ice cream. The drinks menu spills over two pages and combines wines from both Australia and South America.

The verdict’s in. The Tramsheds – and Bodega 1904 in particular – might actually be one of the greatest additions to the city’s food scene in years.

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