The little tapas house by Porteño Group opened some 13 years ago and swung sin city into good times while dining and imbibing. Now in a new home, a shared space with their wine shop Wyno, just behind Porteño, their audacious Holt Street Argentinian bistro Bodega is back and better than ever. They’ve cut squares from the famous matador-and-bull mural to adorn one wall, while the other is a glass window showcasing all the wines next door. In fact, Wyno is now also a holding bar for those awaiting a seat on Bodega’s long communal table.

Gun sommelier Gavin Wright has procured a worldly list of wines you’ve got to try right now, while a concise menu by the Bodega boys – Milgate and Abrahanowicz – only has two cult hero dishes from Bodega’s past: Bodega fish fingers and that banana split. Oyster mushrooms arrive with a fried egg in the centre and a subtle parmesan cream atop. Grilled Cape Grim beef tongue is wonderfully soft, served with a tuna mayonnaise and sweet leeks for good measure. Then crisp-skin Spanish mackerel wades in a white bean and mojo verde puddle that’s fresh, zesty and light, before cumquat compote adds a lovely touch to house-baked Basque cheesecake. Here’s to another decade of tapas treats.