It’s hard to believe it’s a decade since Bodega introduced us to a new way of dining that put emphasis on great food to share, cracking, quaffable wines and plain good fun.

In a colourful room anchored by a gregarious cartoon bull and matador, the waiters deliver tapas with an attention to detail we’ve never seen before. Corned beef and smoked oyster mayo make for a magnificent bite-sized starter in a hot cross bun. Quail egg oozes over wonderfully textural steak tartare. Black truffle and pecorino add dimension to pork and cuttlefish meatballs, while jalapeno adds punch to a cabbage and green apple salad crowned by pork and octopus. Lamb braised for 12 hours makes friends with harissa, hummus and eggplant.

Be certain not to leave before you try the all-time classic Banana Split.

Must eat: Fish fingers, kingfish, charred toast, cuttlefish, mojama