When it first opened it was like the running of the bulls, only punters were racing towards a mighty bull, the striking mural at Bodega. The rocking tapas bar by chefs Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz along with Sarah Doyle and Joe Valore (now The Porteño Group) immediately won fans with its great food and wine and fun-times vibe.

Now, 13 years on, the crew have moved Bodega into their Wyno wine bar, just behind their Argentinian restaurant Porteño. Wyno x Bodega retains the bottle shop side of the enterprise, the shelves running the length of the slender room, while the famous mural now features in segments on the opposite wall.

The now-open kitchen overlooks the long communal table where up to 27 guests get straight down to tapas. Sommelier Gavin Wright delivers a worldly tour of wines, all available by the glass, and the Latin-leaning menu is cleverly trim.

And pleasingly, Milgate and Abrahanowicz have not succumbed to holding on to all the hero dishes of the past. Just two have survived the move – the unconquerable kingfish fingers and that bloody good banana split.

Among the new dishes, a moreish medley of mushrooms, largely oyster, are tossed in butter, topped with a fried egg and crowned by a subtle parmesan cream. Poached, sliced, then grilled Cape Grim tongue is wonderfully giving and served vitello tonnato style with a tuna sauce. Crisp of skin and pink-fleshed, Spanish mackerel share the plate with just-cooked white beans with a mojo verde that’s zesty, light and lets the savouriness of the fish star. For the finale, a wedge of Basque cheesecake finds an ally in cumquat compote.

It’s all rather delicious, and proof that Bodega’s move is a good one. It might even have them queuing for another 13 years.