It’s been feeding Bondi folk for over two decades and has had its fair share of peaks and troughs, but Bondi Trattoria (the Tratt, as it’s affectionately known) is back thanks to a couple of pros who cut their teeth in the high-end of the dining game, but needed a new sunset.

New owners chef Joe Pavlovich and manager Alasdair France were a big part of the Luke Mangan empire, but are now bringing a breath of fresh sea-air to this laid-back beachside diner, where tasty food is served with a breezy nonchalance.

Dine alfresco and take in the whole Bondi Beach show, or step inside where it’s family friendly and all about the shared feast. The simple bistro setting is conjured by bright cream walls with pastel mint panelling, classic dark wood bistro chairs are bare wooden tables and mismatched crockery.

Chef Pavlovich has always had a knack for dishing up food backed by strong technique that’s also big on flavour, and here it’s exemplified by generous servings where nothing is groundbreaking, but all is reliably good.

A textural tarama dip comes garnished with bottarga shavings. Roasted bugs and buffalo mozzarella wade in a puddle of garlic and chilli butter. Horseradish and Parmesan crown a stellar beef tartare, while lamb ragu is magnified by the umami oomph of shiitake mushrooms tossed through toothsome casarecce pasta.

There are pizzas, a chateaubriand for two and the signature tuna angel hair pasta too, with a slightly seared twist. Mostly though, all the focus is on the diner and giving them a full belly and happy heart. The Tratt is back.

Must-eat dish: Roasted bugs, garlic & chilli butter, buffalo mozzarella
Instagram: @bonditratt