Not too many Tasmanian cafes offer cheesecake or cured wallaby with garlic chive scramble and horseradish for brunch. But Born in Brunswick doesn’t stick to the rules, rather prefers to curiously bend them.

Trendy seems an understatement for this North Hobart eatery. You enter through the beak of an exotic bird then are absorbed in to a sharp interior that ticks all the right boxes: lashings of natural light, cushioned bench seats mixed with bar stools, soft timber, living greenery, muted colour, nonchalant staff.

Paying total tribute to its namesake, the space feels as if you’ve been transported to a cracking Melbourne cafe, thanks to its service and charisma. The turnover of tables is marvelous, and allows lines out the door able to file in quickly enough.

A familiar face greeting guests and roaming from table to table in cool kicks is Con Vailas, a contestant on MasterChef 2016. Con and business partner Ben Korkmaz opened Born in Brunswick last year and the pair continues to push the boundaries on brunching.

Even the safe options deliver some difference: eggs your way with peach, tomato and pepperberry chutney; sourdough with grapefruit and yuzu marmalade; spiced hotcakes with coconut and cardamom ice cream and caramelised banana custard.

Despite polishing off half a dozen dishes in less than two hours, the two of us feel fresh and tempted to order the mango and lemongrass panna cotta with condensed coconut cream. You see, Born in Brunswick’s all-day menu is subtly satisfying and while the setup is your ideal breakfast destination, most of its items could be enjoyed from early morning to late arvo (dinner service is on the cards, however – YAY!).

I really dig a special of torn (oh no – not pulled) pork shoulder, fermented strawberry, Japanese turnip and black garlic. And Born in Brunswick’s take on chia pudding is deliciously nutty and filled with fruit, colour and a hint of citrus. The coffee is solid and Tasmanian Juice Press makes a most welcome appearance alongside quirky cocktails if you’re feeling a bit naughty.

Having trained in a Greek taverna and now known widely for his plating genius, chef Josh Retzer works busily at the wide, open pass to dress dishes to perfection. Each is a veritable work of art, but with a purpose beyond making your eyes pop. Josh forages for snowberries at the foot of Mount Wellington and greenery from east coast shorelines. He has considered each element for its taste and texture, and at times pleasingly tricks your senses.

Josh is one of a herd of staff, all who buzz about and get you what you need quickly without a fuss. The place is savvy, and while some folk may be tested by its take on daytime dining, I urge you to get comfortable and give it a go.