A saviour to savour in the suburbs, Boronia Kitchen is a gastronomic gift for the otherwise culinary wasteland that is Gladesville. Sure, it’s by no means Sydney’s hottest new thing, but it epitomises the sprawling nature of our food scene.

The all-dayer (open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and takeaway) is the work of two industry heavyweights who’ve set out to enhance the food credentials of their neighbourhood. Susan Sullivan, former general manager of defunct group MorSul (late owner of Aria, Chiswick, Aria Catering) and Simon Sandall, the same group’s former executive chef, have created a neat little eatery – the kind of place you could have a special meal, I guess, but mostly it’s a lure for locals looking for a casual meal more than once a week. With a shopfront entrance, all the energy of an open kitchen and a genuine diner feel with banquettes, bench seating and plenty of bravado at each table, Boronia is jam-packed with very happy Gladesvillians. The service staff are young, enthusiastic and clearly well informed, and the wine list is tight, but with enough decent drops and Aussie ambers to keep you interested.

In the kitchen, Sandall isn’t pushing the boat out, but rather he’s reeling
in the punters with a mix of familiar, homely and a bit of fancy fare, too. Yuzu mayonnaise and black and white sesame seeds top generous soldiers of prawn toast, and house air-dried wagyu is nicely balanced against dollops of onion curd and wafers of potato. Barramundi grilled on its flesh (rather than skin) is a bit dry and its sidekick of tomato and zucchini is a bit too homely. The Boronia roast chicken, however, is nicely seasoned, and as juicy as a gossip column. Accessorised with roasted heads of garlic, lemons and lemon myrtle it’s the absolute go-to, much like the restaurant itself if you’re within cooee.