One magnificent plane tree in a garden of many seems to wrap its arms around those in the window seats of this restaurant. It’s part of the botanical landscape seen from every table in a hushed, celebratory Hamptons-meets-handsome-Australian dining space. The meal is preceded by a stroll through one of Adelaide’s famous parks, so lush at lunchtime, or romantic when it’s an amble to a weekend dinner. Inside, the crisp white freshness of dressed tables under charming timber fretwork creates a package for special events, memorable date nights or just a jolly nice day out.

The food, created by former Advertiser Chef of the Year Paul Baker, is unique. And the service is a clever balance of ease and formality.

The garden, from which the kitchen team pick and forage each day, is a constant reference point, from the first amuse bouche through comfortably spaced courses that are served with a quiet rundown about the flavours on each plate.

A faint sear touches pink blue fin tuna, under a blanket of punchy kohlrabi, and bound by ginger broth. Corned Berkshire pork belly is positively creamy, served on a dark jus, alongside caramelly cauli. Flaking, crisp-skinned Coorong mulloway sits alongside a second hero of soft fennel roasted to russet. And a rich chocolate fondant anchors a combination of  tangy yogurt sorbet, sour cherries and fine choc tuille that steals the dessert show.