A stroll through the Botanic Gardens is an idyllic start to lunch at this light-filled restaurant, set among the wise old trees and water features.

Floor-to-ceiling windows offer a panoramic view of the surrounds, where head chef Paul Baker grows and forages for many of his ingredients. It might be crisp fennel, which he shaves on to delicate smoked mussel custard set atop bite-sized squid ink crackers. The snack is finished with pretty purple borage, also from the garden.

Or the flowering nasturtium, blitzed into a peppery emulsion that brings together a creamy blue swimmer crab and French sausage dish.

For something larger, slow cooked lamb is compressed and caramelised, then served with a mound of delightfully chewy freekeh in a puddle of rich onion caramel. Curls of pickled quince and bower spinach, also from the day’s pickings, add layers of texture, tartness and salt.

It’s fine diner food in a relaxed environment, largely thanks to friendly, personable service.

A comprehensive wine list has a good showing of local drops, or a wine flight is available for the set menu.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.