The collision of cultures on a plate can cause confusion at times. But fusion need not be a dirty word. Take Brick Lane; an unconventional play on Indian cuisine that’s reliant on the flavours, but not on the traditions.

Owners are British expats Kiran Bains and Alistair French and they named the eatery after the famous London street known for its curry houses. Interiors by Matt Angilcas take inspiration from the venue’s namesake, with eclectic, industrial elements like exposed bricks and colourful street art murals by Shannon Crees.

In the kitchen, chef Joey Ingram (ex-Bistro Mint) is turning his attention to the spices of India. A pleasing chilli kick enhances prawn and coconut curry and basmati rice on a betel leaf. The ‘ducking awesome’ involves paw paw and cashew curry with glazed duck breast inside rolled roti.

It’s a rollicking start, but the mains, although well executed, are missing the spice seduction Indian cuisine is known for. I’m not necessarily talking about hot chilli spice, but the big, layered flavours that slow-cooked food delivers.

Beef shin is prepared sous vide, rather than spending time to take on flavours in its sauce. Though pleasant, in skipping the process for style, the dish has lost some substance.

More satisfying is a spiced eggplant with kipfler potatoes, tamarind and yoghurt. You can also build your own tacos with the Bannockburn fried chook platter. Desserts include a watermelon granita or banana tapioca.

I quite like Brick Lane but I’d like to see more depth of flavour. There’s a good energy, great drinks and playfulness to each dish. They do the quirky subcontinent thing well, but if they explored the building blocks behind great Indian cuisine a bit more, it would be a banging night out.