When the waitress at popular Brisbane French/Vietnamese eatery Libertine warns us that the Hanoi jungle curry stir-fry will be hot and asks if we’d like it with less heat, I answer with a resounding, ‘No’.

Turns out this is the one time in possibly every 50 where the waitress isn’t exaggerating.

The vegetarian dish ($25), loaded with green beans, crispy cubes of tofu, baby corn, bamboo, carrot, Thai eggplant, bean sprouts, gai lan and a string of green peppercorns, is hotter than a redhead’s skin after a day at the beach without sunscreen. And it is fantastic!

For me, it’s that perfect level of heat – like an episode of Married at First Sight where it’s uncomfortable and you want it to stop, but then you find yourself uncontrollably, against all your better judgment, going back for more.

For those without such a heat tolerance, it’s probably best to follow the waitress’s advice. Or perhaps go for the safer option of the barbecue duck and spiced cherry crepe ($8.50 each). Dismiss the semantics, this is an old-fashioned, Chinese-style duck pancake – and a good one at that – piled high with spring onion, julienned cucumber, a fold of iceberg lettuce, mint, just-cooked pieces of duck and a saccharine, sticky cherry glaze similar to hoi sin.

Another crowd pleaser is the coconut crab sandwich ($7.50), bulging with coconut mayo-dressed shredded crustacean and coleslaw on a borderline-too-sweet, crunchy-topped brioche bun; while the bite-sized shichimi salmon tartare ($6) features diced Atlantic salmon, pickled radish, baby capers and salmon roe on a prawn cracker, which is great texturally but could do with a little hit of acid.

As individual items, the snack-style menu can get pricey fast, so consider either the seven-course ($59 per person) or 10-course banquet ($79 per person), which represent much better value for money.

They can now also be enjoyed in the venue’s vibrant new outdoor area, Bar Jardin, which extends from the restaurant to Petrie Tce.

The elegant space features a retractable roof, marble tables, a mix of white and black chairs, fire engine-red poofs and striped banquet seating, and is a lovely spot to enjoy a few drinks from the smart and eclectic wine list, bolstered by a solid mix of mainstream and interesting craft beers and predominantly Asian-inspired cocktails.

The only hiccup is with the service. While staff are friendly and appeasing, at times it’s slower than a 92-year-old competing in a marathon after a hip replacement. Trying to get someone’s attention is like trying to complete an 1000-piece jigsaw puzzle after a few wines, while our empty drink glasses sat uncleared on our table for over an hour.

That aside, Libertine offers reliably good food and the new al fresco area is the perfect spot to satisfy a chilli craving.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.