This Brisbane gastropub has old-school comfort food aplenty.
I have found the perfect place to carbo-load during the Olympics. With a menu featuring a chip butty, a three-cheese toastie and shoestring fries with parmesan salt and tomato sauce, you can maximise your muscle glycogen stores with ease, particularly useful before endurance events such as tomorrow’s women’s marathon and next weekend’s men’s 42km canter.
The newly opened Brisbane gastropub (sounds like an after-effect of falling in the ocean in Rio) Hope & Anchor in inner-west Paddington’s Given Tce is the latest project by Jamie Webb and Simon Shearer, who established Sonny’s House of Blues in the CBD and Lefty’s Old Time Music Hall and Ginger’s Diner just a spud’s throw away up the road in Caxton St. The Hope & Anchor is in a heritage building that most recently housed The Lark, then the Shingle Inn. It was constructed in 1888 as a bakery, and the new fitout shows off the original fireplace and brick walls and teams them with leather banquettes, wooden tables and a warm, low-light vibe.
The ground floor is small, with much of floor taken up by the bar – where you also order the food – but there is plenty of additional seating in an annex to one side, on the footpath and upstairs. Service isvery personable but there was something of a crush around the bar at times.
It’s not all ye olde English pub fare, though there are several old-school treats on the menu, which is divided into snacks/small bites and main courses. Our panko-crumbed fish fingers ($9) were rigid enough to use as relay batons and were just-right sidekicks to a drink, as were the luscious devils on horseback ($8), last seen on a menu in 1974.
The drinks list includes an array of cocktails, a shortish, well-priced wine list with a reasonable array by the glass, and an interesting selection of cider and beer including a Balter Alt Brown from Mick Fanning’s Currumbin brewery among those on tap.
Of the mains, minute steak with peppercorn sauce, shoestring fries and salad ($25) went well with a glass of perfectly decent house red ($6), an Adelaide Hills shiraz. The half baby chicken with truffled sausage gravy and Dutch cream mash ($25) was also excellent, rib-lining winter comfort food. Desserts are chocolate mousse with malted whipped cream and our choice, drunk orange cake with mascarpone (both $9). It was a decent enough slice of cake, although it could have done with being drunker, or perhaps a drenching in syrup to ramp up the moisture.
Hope & Anchor is an all-purpose bolthole for a drink, a lunchtime sandwich or a hearty evening meal, and seems on track to be a winner.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.
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