Take a seat in one of the red leather booths framed by timber archways, pop on your plastic bib, clean your hands with one of the thoughtfully provided wet wipes and get ready to get messy.

Rod Saba and David Kempnich have been satisfying Brisbane’s cravings for finger-licking ribs with their Big Roddy’s Rippin’ Rib Shack market stall at West End’s Boundary Street Markets and the city’s King George Square for the past three years, and recently made the leap to open their first permanent location in South Brisbane’s emerging Fish Lane.

The compact space almost grunts with masculinity thanks to industrial detailing, exposed bulb lighting, concrete floors and some cheeky framed pictures of celebrities where Big Roddy has been photoshopped in. While it could definitely be considered a bloke’s paradise, it’s fun and friendly vibe is equally appealing to females.

The menu is definitely a 20-something dude’s dream, however.

Their signature pork and beef ribs line up against burgers, American-themed fare such as buffalo wings, chilli fries and jalapeño poppers, plus sides such as corn on the cob, fries and coleslaw.

The pork ribs ($19 half rack, $32 full rack) come with your choice of a free side and a selection of special sauces, ranging from sweet barbecue to “max power” with a two chilli heat rating. The “original” is sweet without being saccharine, and has a purity to it unlike some of the more artificial-tasting varieties served across town. The meat also, literally, falls off the bone, with half of it landing in my lap before it could reach my lips.

The genuine cheese curd is unavailable in the Canadian classic poutine ($10) during our visit and is instead substituted with mozzarella which doesn’t quite have the same effect. But the thick-cut chips smothered with properly made gravy are still a glutinous treat, though a little too salty with the recommended addition of bacon for $2.

Jalapeño poppers ($9) come stuffed with macaroni cheese but are let down by the sauce not having the flour cooked out of it properly. There are no such complaints, however, about honey sesame carrots ($5), which have just the right amount of bite. The fried green beans ($5) are guaranteed to keep any vampires away with enough garlic to knock the blood suckers out cold.

A decent selection of craft-style beer available on tap or by the bottle provides the ideal foil to the calorific dishes, or there are jugs of sangria or bourbon lemonade ($40), plus a small selection of affordable wines by the glass and bottle.

The floor is dominated by enough staff to start a sporting team, ensuring service is fast and efficient, with food hitting the tables just moments after diners order at the counter. It’s what you want and expect from a fast-casual place, and it proves Big Roddy’s has made the successful transition from market stall to stand-alone venue.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.