“Do we need a hangover to eat there?” My friend, who knows a thing or two about the affliction, asks me this before a visit to Morning After, a fresh-looking cafe in inner Brisbane’s West End. It’s the idea of serial restaurateur Soula Passaris who, with her husband Michael, ran dell’Ugo at South Bank for more than a decade.
Keeping it in the family, she has now joined forces with son Yianni, who brings a cool and casual vibe to the place.
A few “hand-crafted elixirs” will either cure or exacerbate the hangover, but they’re also a good example of the healthy and indulgent ethos Morning After has adopted.
Kale, apple and celery or carrot and ginger versus vanilla bean with cardamom syrup, ice-cream and milk, or peanut butter, maple syrup, banana, ice-cream with milk, say it all. As do the juxtaposed options of unrefined granola with local honey and rosewater jelly, or “MaMuffin”, sausages, eggs, American cheese and hash.
At lunch we find the pendulum stays on healthy with most options. We start with an omelette, liberally stuffed with nicely picked-over sand crab, finely sliced shallots, mild chilli, crumbled peanuts and baby beet leaves. A squeeze of lime and blobs of mayo complete the dish, which pairs well with our other choice of salt-and-pepper squid served with Asian slaw and a tangy yuzu mayo.

Barramundi tacos are next — battered fillets sit on the same slaw as the squid, this one garnished with coriander and a mild wasabi mayonnaise. There are two per serve and, at $16.50, great value, like everything on the menu. Our final choice is slow-cooked chicken, coated in harissa, over roasted baby carrots with cranberries and sunflower seeds. A pile of well-braised lentils sits next to thick-sliced chicken that is tender and juicy, but the whole dish lacks flavour, even with the tahini yoghurt dressing that should have added punch.
On Saturdays, a selection of yiros — lamb shoulder and slow-roasted chicken come with onion, parsley and chips, while prawns are tempura-battered and served with a mint and coriander slaw and Kewpie mayo — is offered along with the regular menu, and maybe a heart-starter or two.
Originally published on couriermail.com.au
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