There’s no name more fitting for Woolloongabba’s newest Italian eatery than Ristorante La Famiglia. Meaning family – that’s exactly how you’ll feel from the moment you walk in the door of the modern, casual restaurant.

Owner Cosimo de Nichilo runs the floor and treats each diner like they’re one of his big, extended brood. He oozes the kind of Italian charm and charisma you wish you could bottle like prized Italian passata – rare and from a recipe few are blessed with.

While plates won’t be cleared the second you finish them and you may have to occasionally ask for your water to be topped up, you don’t mind, because it’s like dining at home – well, the home of that Italian family all non-Italians wish they had.

The food is also what you’d expect to find at that Italian home – simple, traditional, share-style dishes based on family recipes. Think nonna’s meatballs, mamma’s lasagne and Cosimo’s favourite Tuscan dish – la tagliata di manzo.

We began with the burrata ($22), made locally by Casa Motta in Mansfield, and the chargrilled king prawns ($16).

Burrata is a thin pouch of mozzarella filled with a fresh stretched curd cheese called stracciatella and cream; and this version, made from Queensland cows milk, is sensational. Served with a loose, vibrant pesto and a scattering of rocket leaves drizzled with balsamic and olive oil, it’s a dish made for sharing, but one you’ll want to keep all to yourself.

The whole prawns are fresh and firm and come lacquered with a mild chilli, garlic, lemon and olive oil dressing that pepps up the protein, but still lets it shine.

The risotto changes daily and ours was a pea and pancetta version ($22) topped with parmesan crisps and thin slices of crispy, fried pancetta. This was a textbook rendition of the classic dish – fluid and with each grain of rice perfectly al dente.

The orecchiette alle cime di rapa e pancetta ($22) was missing the mandatory broccoli – replaced with spinach – but was still a winner courtesy of al dente pasta zinging with chilli, salty diced pancetta and a crumbling of parmesan.

The scaloppine ($32) starred achingly tender veal, but was not one for those with high cholesterol, thanks to enough lemon, butter and white wine sauce to do laps in.

Also not one for those with artery problems, but completely worth the trip to the emergency room, is the salted caramel and chocolate tart ($12).

Super thin, chocolate pastry encases a liquid caramel that pushes the limits with salt, but is tamed by a rich chocolate ganache. A raspberry coulis adds freshness, while a scoop of vanilla ice cream brings everything together.

The wine list includes severalpopular Australian labels such as Two Hands, and Shaw & Smith, but also offers an array of Italian reds and whites.

La Famiglia – you’re a welcome addition to the Brisbane family.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au