Running the floor at the New Farm eatery, which sits opposite the Queens Arms Hotel, the eager-to-please team trumpet the food and drinks of their homelands to diners more enthusiastically than a spruiker working a sale at a discount store.

Adding to the “fusion” are dishes from Argentina and Peru, with some sticking to tradition, while others are given an Aussie spin.

A taste of Queensland is injected into a Peruvian ceviche ($16), with chunks of Sunshine State pineapple tossed through diced kingfish, coriander and jalapeno.

It’s a twist that works, with the sweetness of the fruit balancing out the acidity of the marinade, creating a light, summery starter.

Slightly heavier are the empanadas ($18). Don’t expect your Spanish-style, meat-filled parcels. These are more traditionally Brazilian – buttery puff pastry, first stuffed with creamy mashed potato and shredded pork, then fried. While certainly tasty, they’re a little on the greasy side.

Bringing back the freshness is stuffed pimiento ($25), a roasted red capsicum bulging with herby couscous and saporous charcoal-roasted pulled pork sitting on a spread of celeriac puree, encircled by a scattering of crisp parsnip chips that are far too addictive.

The seafood platter main ($39) is supersized, chockers with a whole Moreton Bay bug, entire tube of calamari, two deep-fried coconut king prawns and a pot of mussels in a piquant tomato sauce. Add to that your choice of two sides – we went with butter-slathered charred corn and a pomegranate-dotted leafy salad – and it’s a feast far too big for one. Although terrific value, the bug and prawns tasted like they had perhaps been frozen.

The drinks list is even more expansive – crossing into Chile and Mexico as well to offer everything from Argentinian malbec to Peruvian pisco sours and Mexican ales. However, there’s also a solid selection of local beer and wine if you’re after something more familiar.

With Latin music pumping through the speakers, brightly coloured furnishings and soft hanging plants, Fogata feels fun. It’s also a great introduction to the flavours of South America, whether you’re there for dinner or just a drink.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.