It’s all relaxed and stylish on the outside with its polished concrete floors, ragged-edged exposed brick walls and minimalistic abstract artwork creating a chilled,
fuss-free vibe like it was just thrown together on a whim. But the reality is, it took months of fastidious planning, detailing and backbreaking work to create the illusion of having not really tried at all.

Unlike the human hipster, though, the smart and slick, two-storey Fortitude Valley eatery is brimming with personality. The beautifully restored heritage building is dark – in places, moody, and lets you know you’re somewhere special.

From the team behind Gerard’s Bistro, Gerard’s Bar, Laruche and the numerous Hatch & Co outlets, this is an exciting new addition to the fold.

Bringing much of the excitement is chef Braden White (ex-Ricky’s Restaurant & River Bar, Noosa). The kitchen whiz has created a share plate-style menu, bang on trend with dishes such as jerky with cultured cream and mustard seeds, oysters cooked on coal, and storm clams with bottarga, sour cream and sea herbs.

Food arrives at pace with fat little parcels of sweet and fresh crabmeat and finger lime encased in blanched silverbeet ($18) appearing within minutes of ordering. Accompanied by nasturtium and a creamy mayonnaise dusted with dehydrated pea powder, it’s a burstingly fresh and light start to a meal.

Firm tentacles of smoky octopus with slivers of fatty pig cheek on a smooth chickpea puree ($18) were more robust in flavour; as was the suckling pig ($18) that fell apart at the touch of a fork, paired with a smoked yoghurt and parsnip chips worthy of being a stand-alone dish.

A lobster hotdog of sorts ($18) was all you could want and more, with the shellfish coated in a creamy, chive-studded mayonnaise and sitting inside a fluffy, just-sweet brioche roll.

While baby barramundi fillets ($32) came perfectly seared and topped with a punchy spiced butter and sorrel leaves.

A playful take on an Eton mess arrived for dessert, with meringue shards and a nitrogen-set parfait smashed to smithereens covering a passionfruit curd ($10) that will haunt your dreams – in a good way.

Like the owners’ other ventures, the drinks list is impressive. Encompassing exotic beers, unique cocktails and wines by the glass, half bottle and full bottle, it’s compact but varied and smartly tailored to the food.

Service began with a few hiccups, but the sign of a good team is to win you back after initially getting you offside and they succeeded. It is still only early days for the venue, too, and when the kinks are ironed out, the waitstaff will no doubt shine as brightly as the rest of the operation.

Originally published on couriermail.com.au