Housed in one of the most charming buildings in Paddington, Buon Ricordo is an institution in the Sydney restaurant scene. Expect a classic old school Italian offering, with silver service, to boot. The extensive menu means there’s something for everyone, so start where your cravings guide you.

In winter, it’s all about Italian comfort food, and a big bowl of minestra maritata is just the ticket. A well-seasoned tomato broth is the base of a warming fish soup, bobbing with hearty bread dumplings, spinach and angel hair pasta. It has that restorative, nourishing appeal of the humble dishes of cucina povera. Bowls of pasta are on the generous side, with flavours like a Neapolitan ragu of pork and veal, alongside refreshing sauces like a zingy pistachio pesto with river prawns. Silver service comes into full effect with the main courses, with a delightfully theatrical presentation of slow-cooked lamb.

The Milly Hill lamb shoulder is cooked crosta di pane, an old world technique of cooking the lamb shoulder in a pastry parcel resulting in meat so tender you can cut it with a spoon. Swimming in a rich lamb jus flavoured with onion, rosemary and olives, it’s a great winter dish.

For a venue to survive this long (33 years, to be exact), consistency is key, and despite a changeover of ownership last year, Buon Ricordo is more enjoyable than ever.