The stately Art Deco building that houses Café Brass promises something special. As does the involvement of nightclub king and restaurateur Sam Frantzeskos, this 180-seater his latest venture since he sold Fog in Prahran four years ago.

Café Brass is similarly sceney. The former brass factory (hence the name) has been transformed into a striking brasserie following a $2 million refit. A handsome bar, leather booths and covetable lighting make for a sense of occasion and theatre.

Former premier Jeff Kennett is here the day we dine, and AFL identity Garry Lyon chose the café’s launch party for his first public outing with girlfriend Nicky Brownless. Star-spotting might also extend to actors and celebrity chefs.

Former Fog and Le Bon Ton chef Jeremy Sutphin’s menus aren’t faithful to any one cuisine, a sprawling 41 dishes excluding sides, specials and desserts on the lunch menu alone. The wine list also runs deep with fare-friendly drops.

Choose from five cuts of steak, a burger or a list of globetrotting starters – a wonderful mini brioche sub, say, sandwiching lobster and prawn bound with tarragon aïoli, or a crowd-pleasing fish taco with a nicely spiced salsa.

The pappardelle is a masterclass in comfort – there’s pure joy in unfurling the ribbons of pasta from yielding chunks of braised lamb shoulder dotted with goat’s cheese for cut-through.

Less joyful was the steak frites, with a well-seasoned but underdone Angus rump, with chunky potato chips instead of French fries adding stodge.

Service was a slight disaster. At one point our waitress even said, “Gosh, you guys are getting the worst service.” Forgotten drinks, no steak knife, an AWOL side – it wasn’t her day. Or ours.

That aside, there’s lots to like at Café Brass. It has great bones and a sophisticated air, but it needs to deliver on all fronts, not just on X factor.