We’re so damn busy we often forget that ours is a city girt by sea, with panoramic perspectives from almost anywhere near the deep blue.

With waves of new eateries distracting us, we tend to forget about Cafe Sydney, too. The stalwart has been feeding more than 600 punters a day for 17 years and is a major culinary drawcard for those visiting our shores.

Certainly once you step onto the balcony, the views sweep you off your feet. The lofty outlook from the top of Circular Quay’s Customs House delivers a startling reminder to enjoy our harbour more often, but views alone do not make a top restaurant.

I’d happily trade views for good food in a heartbeat, so does the modern fare stack up to the seduction of Sydney Harbour? Well, for the most part, yes.

So the service is a little rough around the edges, but they mean well. And there is a sense you’re dining in a well-oiled, albeit monolithic, machine.

But it takes a special sort of chef to maintain a high level of consistency at such a volume and James Kidman makes it look like child’s play. The sheer volume hasn’t quelled his appetite for best in class produce, nor cooking with a considered touch.

Deep, rich slivers of Blackmore Wagyu bresaola stand out against seared tuna and a lick of Pedro Ximenez. Creamy King salmon belly tartare comes decorated with jewels of salmon roe, bug tail, shiso and dabs of lemon creme fraiche.

An ensemble of capers, olives and tomato help pan-fried John Dory tell its story, while carrot puree, eggplant and sheep’s milk labne compliment the Moroccan merguez sausage and blushing lamb loin.

A dessert of yuzu cream, blood orange jelly and macaroon crumbs signs off on a meal and a venue that is worth remembering.