Camus, nestled at the Westgarth base of Northcote’s High St, marks French-Algerian chef Pierre Khodja’s long-awaited return to the kitchen, here, for the first time as owner-operator master of his domain.

In one of the year’s best new-restaurant fit-outs – downstairs, a gleaming, black-tiled open kitchen anchors the dining room; while upstairs, you’ll find blindingly stark white surrounds where Khodja’s refined, yet fuss-free cooking is on show.

Khojda’s North African spicing dances in deft layers across a menu where technique is tempered with a generous heart, and share-feasting is encouraged. Slow-cooked goat comes in a caramelised onion braise, with plump apricots adding sweetness to the meat that has had its richness kept in check. An indulgent b’stilla – a Moroccan spiced pie – has its flaky filo crust packed to bursting with fragrant shredded duck and comes with a terrific fig-and-raisin chutney. Calamari stuffed with prawns and swimming in seafood bisque is every good reason to return.

But so, too, is the Turkish delight souffle that’s a Khodja signature and remains as delightful as ever, the pink-tinged fluffy cloud giving up a few sticky jubes underneath, the halva ice cream alongside refined and elegant.

This soufflé is Camus on a plate: refined, elegant and totally delicious.

Must eat dish: Turkish delight souffle
Instagram: @camusrestaurant