Thrusting towards Bass Strait like the jutting prow of a ship, with views over the bay and championship golf course, the RACV Cape Schanck Resort is the Mornington Peninsula’s most dramatic building.

Cape, the resort’s signature restaurant, puts drama on every plate as well. In the capable hands of executive chef Josh Pelham, steamed wild hapuka and Port Phillip calamari are lapped by coastal sea vegetables, while peppered loin of kangaroo gets down and earthy with kale, saltbush and finger lime. Pastry chef Shannon Thirumal shines on the dessert front with ashed goat’s cheesecake, and a chocolate crème brulee with mead-roasted quince.

Your tab can climb quickly – a wagyu steak nudging fifty dollars still needs a side of very good potato and parmesan gratin – but Cape capitalises on the peninsula’s bounty, including exceptional estate olive oil. The wine list plays to the region as well.

On our visit, service swung from expert to amiable but on a summer’s night, with the bay all atwinkle, Cape restaurant could well be your hole in one.

Must Eat Dish: Wild hapuka with Port Phillip calamari