Who knew a little-loved fish could beat the view from the Anglesea Surf Club’s dining room in the spectacular stakes? 

But there they are, a half dozen whole sardines fresh from Port Phillip and straight into the pan, nowt but a dusting of flour to help them to crunchy perfection. Teamed with the sweet earthiness of beetroots in yoghurt with a hit of horseradish heat, it’s surf and turf for a new generation.

And that’s the joy of Captain Moonlite, Matt Germanchis and Gemma Gange’s three-year-old takeover of a Surf Club. Never resting on his laurels, Germanchis’ Euro-looking, Greek-scented menu continues to evolve, with dishes including saganaki with soft quince drizzled in burnt honey, and a knockout kombu-dusted prawn cracker that’s an absolute must. 

A warm doughnut filled with spanner crab is a two-bite winner, a soy and brown butter dressing elevates thick-cut kingfish amped with ginger and finger lime into a Eurasian hit, and who doesn’t like brussels sprouts when they come crumbed and fried, and with a pond of smoked yoghurt?

Staples – terrific fish and chips; a family-sized feast of slow cooked lamb with tzatziki and cauliflower – and a fridge of Victorian wines keep both holidaymakers and locals on repeat. 

Despite Gange’s best efforts, service is more sweet than sharp so expect to wait, but who’s in a rush when there’s that view to drink in?

Must Eat Dish: Slow-roasted lamb