It’s the kind of dish you might expect to see at a fine dining establishment, not in a humble cafe and cooking school. We’re at Casa Carboni in Angaston, where owner/teacher/ cook Matteo Carboni and his FOH (front of house) wife Fiona host a long lunch each Sunday, as well as simpler meals earlier in the week.

Fiona reveals the menu upon arrival, starting with a snack of Port Lincoln sardine on sourdough with enough acidity to get the tastebuds going. The last of the season’s Adelaide Hills porcini is honoured in a simple salad, shaved and tumbled with rocket and the very best parmesan. Beautifully cooked ox tongue on lightly pickled red cabbage, topped with garlicky salsa verde, is a triumph that will appeal even to the offal-opposed.

And if you’ve ever wondered what risotto should be like, Matteo’s risotto alle vongole, cooked just al dente, will have you wanting to return for a class. Then there’s that ravioli, filled with tender beef and chard.

To finish, a coffee cream with orange tuile is everything a dessert should be. Wines, predominantly from Italy and France, are by bottle only.

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