As we step through the noren curtains at Chaco Bar the room is abuzz with diners crammed on communal tables tucking into things on sticks and strong drinks. It’s brimming with energy and we want to join in.

Chaco Bar once occupied a tiny site on Darlinghurst’s Crown Street (now Chaco Ramen) and recently moved to this much larger space in Potts Point that was formerly home to Jimmy Liks.

It’s a dimly lit den with kitchen counter dining and tables both small and communal. The sweet and efficient staff are on hand at every turn to help you hit the drinks detailed in a succinct list of beers, sake and shochu highballs.

Chaco Bar specialises in the Fukuoka-style of yakitori, which uses all the classic chicken bits (giblets, thighs, skin, parson’s nose), along with much more threaded on skewers and charred over a charcoal grill. But the menu by owner Keita Abe and Chris Xin (ex-Tetsuya’s and Rockpool Dining Group) isn’t all about things on sticks.

A sashimi plate for two makes a great start – in this instance starring abalone with wakami and cucumber, and cuttlefish with pickled wasabi. Wagyu tri-tip is an umami mouthful coupled with anchovy butter, while seared pork gyoza are a nice detour, and sweet, charred baby onions and shishito peppers balance the richer sticks.

Highlights among the sticks are chicken skin charred beautifully so the fat has rendered, and the gelatinous joy of the tail (yes, a whole skewer of parson’s nose). The glazed thighs, though, are a little dry.

And you could do worse than signing off with a palate-cleansing lemonade granita and whisky ice-cream.

You’ve got the makings of a serious snacking session here or a full feast, depending on your mood. Chaco Bar is a rollicking good time with the right energy for just about everyone.