When Neil Perry said he swore by the yakitori at Chaco Bar, the shoebox-sized restaurant became one of the hottest venues in town, instanstly.

The noisy Japanese den on Crown Street might have a confusing reservation system that results in a wait, but it’s worth it all the same. Service is swift, charming and polite. Proper Asahi served on tap is a drawcard as well as tinnies of Mick Fanning’s Balter beer.

For nibbles, balls of fluffy Japanese yam are fried with thin slices of “European” kipfler potatoes and tossed with ‘Japanese MSG’ – aonori and Kyushu shoyu. They’re crunchy, salty and a perfect beer snack. Expertly pleated gyoza arrive sizzling in a cast iron pan, served with a Japanese chilli paste and a warning to wait until they’ve cooled.

Silky John Dory and prawn dumplings drowned in a strong Sichuan sauce don’t feel particularly Japanese, but are delicious nonetheless. All the yakitori classic skewers make the list, including chicken tail and gizzards for the diehards.

Monday nights draw a crowd for the ramen-only menu, where you can expect a giant steaming bowl of flavour-rich broth, chewy, springy noodles and all of the usual condiments. An umeboshi plum and the $16 price tag is the cherry on top.

Must eat dish: Gyoza with Japanese chilli
Instagram: @chaco_bar