Step back through time as you enter the historic Normanby Chambers in the heart of the CBD, now home to a slick establishment dripping with opulence. Chancery Lane delivers Pickett’s vision of plating up modern food using classic techniques.

There’s a brilliant balance of seafood and meat options against seasonal produce. Peek beyond the green marble bar to catch waiters trading wine secrets about the long-stretching drinks list with the sommelier.

Live a little and start with a caviar bump tableside followed by wagyu tartare seasoned with confit celery, tomato, shallot, horseradish and Dijon mustard, artfully dusted in seaweed powder. You can’t skip the sea perch mousseline (cream and egg white sauce) in a warm saffron bisque, dotted with caviar. While the ricotta gnocchi is ever-changing, on this visit the fluffy pillows are drenched in a glossy brown butter and mushroom sauce.

The mains are large enough to share, such as the dry-aged duck with cognac and fig. Chancery Lane looks expensive and may be easily pigeonholed as a special-occasion restaurant, but the lavish experience, premiere ingredients and eye for detail is worth every penny, whenever you like.

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