There are six outposts of Chat Thai in Sydney – the game-changing Thai eatery opened by Amy Chanta in 1989. But you can be sure it’s always the two-storey restaurant in Haymarket that generates the biggest queue, with people regularly snaked down the street in anticipation of delights inspired by Bangkok’s bustling street markets.

Think giant king prawns, grilled and served on a bed of white-pepper infused glass noodles, aromatic snapper larb or prawns in sour orange tamarind curry. Or khao soi, a smoky, soupy bowl of noodles and chicken in a northern Thai coconut curry. Desserts, Chanta’s specialty, include khanom buaing, little bow-tie wafers with meringue and candied egg yolk.

Snaring a table can be difficult, but at least the kitchen stays open until 2am every night.

Must eat: The crab omelette